99 Audi A4 B5 Motor Mount Replacement

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Look under the hood of an old Ford hot rod and its engine mounts will likely be uncomplicated metallic brackets bolted to the car's chassis; in mass-produced passenger cars like your A4, engine mounts serve a dual purpose of connecting the engine to the chassis and keeping the engine'southward vibrations from being transmitted to the passengers.

Normally this is achieved by incorporating rubber into the mounts.

Like any other rubber parts on a car, the prophylactic used in engine mounts tin wear out over fourth dimension. A croaky, torn, or deteriorated engine mountain will do a poor job of isolating engine vibrations, or you volition discover disconcerting clunks equally the engine moves around as it runs.

For performance or runway-mean solar day enthusiasts, the stock engine mounts may be a bit likewise flexible whether they are worn out or not. If yous are one of these people, you may want to consider getting mounts from an S4 or RS4. Stiffer mounts exercise brand for a less luxurious driving experience, simply they do resist the twisting of the engine more softer mounts, ensuring a more direct transmission of power from the engine to the drivetrain.

The A4 engines utilize 3 mounts. The two side mounts are large, rubber and metal parts that use a single, central bolt to connect the engine to the chassis. The 3rd mountain is a prophylactic bumper that attaches to a dominate on the bottom of the radiator support panel. This "snout mountain" rests in a metal "cup" that is fastened to the engine just below the crankshaft pulley. Thus, you have to move the radiator support panel forward into the service position (run into the service position article for boosted assistance) to remove and supplant this mount.

Hot tip

Information technology'south piece of cake to substitute OEM S4 or RS4 mounts--but yous may need to accept the turbocharger out to gain access to the right-side mount.

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Projection Photos

Figure 1 Let'southward starting time at the forepart mountain, which is really more of a bumper than a proper mount. It consists of the circled rubber piece, which is clearly visible from above when the radiator support panel is in the service position--you'll need to move the panel to this position to replace this mountain.

Figure 2 Yous'll do your piece of work from below the auto, where the front mount is more visible. Here you lot tin can see the aluminum loving cup-shaped bracket where the rubber piece inserts when the radiator back up panel is moved back into its normal position. Notation the red arrow, which indicates the left, or driver'southward-side engine mount.

Figure three I found information technology easiest to cut the rubber mount in order to remove it from its protrusion on the radiator support panel. I used a utility knife first so a screwdriver to pry information technology off. However, this ended up scratching the paint a bit, so I'd advise using a more careful paw or a duller tool.

Effigy 4 Put some lubricant on the within of the new mountain and slide it into place. I recommend a piffling common dish lather, do not use a petroleum or silicone based lubricant as it will impairment the rubber. Information technology is difficult to become enough leverage to push button the condom slice fully onto the protrusion. Try putting something betwixt the cease of the prophylactic mount and the engine; so yous can push on the radiator support panel to force the mount into place.

Effigy 5 Now move underneath the automobile to access the other ii mounts. This is the left side mount--the red arrow points to the mountain itself, while the aluminum slice below attaches to the front sub frame and too locates the front sway bar (it'southward been removed in this photo). Use a 13mm wrench or deep socket to remove the nut that is threaded onto the bottom of the mount.

Figure 6 This is the passenger-side, or correct-side mount, seen from below. Just as with the mount on the other side, you'll need to remove the 13mm nut from the threads that extend from downward from the center of the mount (blue arrow). Annotation the three other holes in the aluminum brace to which the mount is attached. The ruby-red arrow points to a circular bump on the bottom of the mount that should upwards with this hole.

Figure 7 This photo shows the top of the correct-side mount, with a socket and ratchet removing the 13mm nut at the tiptop of the mount. You lot tin can see, yet, how it could be very hard if not impossible to access this nut without having first removed the airbox and the turbocharger. I fifty-fifty had to bend the heat shielding out of the way in a higher place the mounting nut. If the turbo is withal in place you may be able to reach this nut from below, reaching forwards from backside the nut, just access will be very express. If y'all find yourself in this situation, you lot may be all-time served by lifting the engine. Having removed the bottom basics, the mounts volition lift upwards along with the engine and yous may gain a little more room to piece of work.

Figure viii Here'south the top of the right-side mountain with the top nut removed.

Effigy ix This is the left-, or commuter's-side engine mount. It's easier to admission, but harder to photo. The red arrow points to the 13mm nut that secures the mount to the engine mountain bracket that extends from the engine.

Effigy x Remove the 13mm nut with a wrench or socket

Figure xi Place a block of wood or some other protection between your floor jack and the engine oil pan earlier y'all raise the engine. You lot only need to raise information technology up a few inches, just enough to requite the mounts enough clearance to be removed.

Figure 12 This photo shows how much the engine was raised in social club to remove the engine mounts. It doesn't look like much until you compare information technology to the last photo in this projection, which shows the engine in its normal position. This lift was achieved without touching the transmission mounts at all.

Figure 13 When the engine is lifted, the bracket attached to the meridian of the mountain lifts away from the mount itself. When information technology is lifted adequately, the mount can exist removed.

Effigy fourteen Hither'south a good view of the left-side mount after its removal. Note that the rubber portion is the pinnacle of the mountain.

Figure xv This photo is to the same as motion picture 13, except that it shows the right-side mount.

Figure 16 This mount looks different than the other one until...

Figure 17 Voila! Because of its proximity to the turbocharger, which gets very hot, this mount is protected with a rubber cup that rests on the top of the mount.

Figure eighteen Because the holes in the mounting brackets are rather small, and the threaded portions of the mounts are long, it tin be a bit tricky to reinstall the mounts. Work slowly, raising and lowering the engine in modest amounts.

Effigy 19 Thread nuts onto the mounts as presently as yous tin can, but don't tighten them down until you have all of the nuts on and take lowered the engine back down. That will retain the flexibility of movement that yous'll need to become all the holes and threads aligned. When you practice get the nuts on, go ahead and lower the engine and tighten all iv nuts downwards.

Figure twenty Again, contrast this photograph with picture 12; here the engine has been lowered dorsum onto its mounts.

Got more than questions? Ask whatever of our automotive experts.

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99 Audi A4 B5 Motor Mount Replacement

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